Boot Selection

• Lightweight hiking(Men's/Women's/Kids') - These boots (and trail shoes) are designed for day hiking and very short overnight trips only. They stress comfort, cushioning and breathability. As a result, they are less supportive and durable than the options below.
• Midweight hiking/backpacking(Men's/Women's/Kids') - These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with light to moderate backpacking loads. They are more durable and supportive than lightweight hiking boots, but they are still intended primarily for short to moderate trips over easy to moderate terrain.
• Extended backpacking/mountaineering(Men's/Women's/Kids') - These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with moderate to heavy backpacking loads. They are designed with multi-day trips in mind. Durable and supportive, they provide a high degree of ankle and foot protection. Some of these models are designed specifically for rough terrain with heavy backpacking loads. They offer the very best in durability, support and protection. Some are stiff enough to accept crampons for snow/ice travel.

• Nylon mesh and split grain leather - Nylon and split-grain leather boots are lightweight and breathable, which makes them perfect for warm- to moderate-weather use and short to moderate backpacking trips. They tend to be softer on your feet, they take less time to break in, and they are almost always lighter than full-grain leather boots. They also cost less. Unfortunately, nylon/split grain boots tend to be less water-resistent than full-grain leather boots (although styles that feature waterproof liners can be just as water-tight, if not more so).
• Full-grain leather - Full-grain leather is extremely water-resistant, durable and supportive (more so than split-grain leather or nylon). It's used primarily in backpacking boots designed for extended trips, heavy loads and hard terrain. Not as lightweight or breathable as nylon/split grain combinations, but it typically lasts far longer. Full-grain leather usually requires a break-in period.
• Waterproof barriers - Lightweight, waterproof barriers (like Gore-Tex®) are built into many hiking boots to enhance their water resistance. These barriers are available in a variety of boot styles, from lightweight hikers to extended hiking/backpacking models. Waterproof performance depends upon the type of barrier used, the materials protecting it and how well the boots/shoes are taken care of. If cared for correctly, these waterproof barriers often last longer than the boots themsleves.

• Waterproof leather -- This is leather that's been treated to be waterproof. It's great stuff to have, but remember -- leaks may still occur (depending on how well the boot pieces are put together).
• Waterproof (or water-tight) construction -- This refers to construction techniques designed to keep leaks out (like seam-sealing, special stitches and precise designs). Water-tight construction is typically combined with waterproofed materials.
• Waterproof liners -- These are the special waterproof barriers described above that are built right into the boot to protect you from whatever leaks make it through the boot materials. These liners typically do a great job of keeping you dry. But remember, Gore-Tex (and the others) don't last forever.

• Stitching - Durable, reliable, can be undone to replace the sole once it has worn down. Different techniques (Littleway, Norwegian) result in different strengths and stiffnesses.
• Cementing - Faster and less expensive than stitching, resulting in lower boot prices. It hasn't always been reliable, but most modern methods produce durable, lost-lasting bonds (depending upon the process and specific glue used). Most cemented boots can now be resoled just like traditional stitch-down models.

• Begin with a foot measurement - Have an experienced REI salesperson measure both of your feet using a Brannock device. Use these measurements as your starting point for trying on boots. If one foot is larger than the other (which is quite common), fit your larger foot first. You may need to use extra socks or an insert to take up extra space in the other boot.
• Pick the right socks - Wear the type of socks and sock liners that you'll be using out on the trail whenever you try on boots.
• Check the initial fit - Lace up the boots and stand up. They should feel snug around the ball and instep of your foot, but loose enough that flexing your foot forward is not uncomfortable. Your heel should be held firmly in place. If your foot feels like it's "floating" inside the boot, try a half size down. If your foot feels cramped or your toes make contact with the front or sides of the toe box, try the next bigger size.
• Take a walk - Take a walk and see how comfortable the boots/shoes are. Check for any looseness, foot movement and/or heel lift. Good-fitting boots will hold your feet firmly in place without binding or pinching them. New boots may feels a little stiff at first, but they should still be comfortable. After a quick walk across a flat surface, step onto an incline facing downhill (if one is available) to check for foot slippage. Your feet should not slide forward easily, nor should you be able to move your heel from side to side. If either of these is possible, try a smaller (or lower volume) boot. If your toes make contact with the front of the boot without much forward movement, try a larger size or a different boot.
• Investigate your options - Try on a number of boot models before you decide on a single pair, even if the first pair feels good. Every boot model is built around a different "last" (standard foot shape), so each one will grab you a little differently.